There’s a new must-go restaurant on the Colorado Springs dining scene. Oro opened in late April at the Mining Exchange Hotel downtown, and in living up to its Italian name, Oro has struck gold.
In keeping with The Mining Exchange’s historic roots as the stock exchange that financed the Pikes Peak region’s gold rush, Oro carries its comfortably elevated theme by blending Colorado style with Italian cuisine. The rustic-meets-refined menu was developed by Chef Aaron Barnett, a James Beard Award nominee, and a thoughtful beverage program curated by Joel Gunderson, a nationally recognized wine expert. The two work together as part of Giant Squid Ink, a Portland, Oregon, based culinary group known for creating award-winning dining experiences.
“At Oro you will have an Italian food experience in the Rockies. Some of my customers have mentioned it’s the best food they have had since they left Italy,” says Izzy Elhousary, restaurant manager of Oro. “Our team also aims to provide a level of hospitality that makes you feel like you are having dinner at your Italian grandmother’s house — not like super-stiff fine dining.”
He also stresses that Oro is focused on being more than just a hotel restaurant; it aims to serve the Colorado Springs community. It’s indicative that the main entrance comes from the sidewalk along Pikes Peak Avenue. Of course, there is also an interior entrance for Mining Exchange Hotel guest coming from the courtyard alley between the two.
“All together with the food, cocktails and welcoming hospitality, we want to give people an experience they can only find at one place in town: Oro,” Elhousary says.
Stepping Inside Oro
We paid a visit to Oro within its first few weeks of opening and were impressed to find it already delivering on that promise so smoothly. It’s not uncommon for new restaurants to take a little bit to dial in their processes and dishes, but we find no hiccups at Oro. From the service to the flavors and presentations, everything is excellent.
Stepping through the front door leads you into a brightly gilded space. There’s an airy feel thanks to the high, stamped tin ceilings painted white. And the overall neutral paint tone allows black and gold accents to pop from comfortably rounded velvet booths and light fixtures. Artistic drop lights add an organic whimsy and remind me of large mushroom caps. Those that remember the space’s previous life as Springs Orleans will recognize the bar, refreshed but still in the same location. Similar to the renovations at The Mining Exchange, there’s a bespoke Colorado vibe that winks at opulence without the pretension.
The Food
Oro’s menu takes a light and playful approach to its Italian fare with an emphasis on local ingredients and regional specialties. For example, among the starters, the sharable Burrata Marinated Peppers feature grilled Pueblo chiles as seasonality allows, and their mild spice adds an excellent contrast to the creamy burrata. The Bison Carpaccio features thinly sliced bison from Colorado’s Rock River Ranches, and Elhousary says it has been among the most popular dishes. It is presented beautifully and will definitely be one we try on a return visit.
Oro’s entrees are divided into Pastas and Larger categories. In keeping with the Colorado theme, we choose the Braised Lamb Shank. Slow-cooked for three and a half hours with mirepoix, pancetta, herbs, Italian red wine and chicken stock, it’s the most tender lamb I’ve ever had. It has the texture of short ribs and falls apart beneath my fork. Green olives offer a complementary tang, and brothy tomato sauce and fresh basil leaves deliver the Italian flair.
From the pasta selections, we opt for the Frutti di Mare. For seafood lovers, it’s a delightful dish. The large portion is a feast for both the palate and the eyes, with mussels, scallops and shrimp nested on a bed of buccatini. The thick noodles hold up well in a light tomato sauce without clumping together. And lemon and saffron offer a fresh, bright note to the shellfish. The scallops and mussels are tender, and the mussels slide easily out of their shells. It’s cooked to perfection.
It’s also heartening to know that Oro is sourcing its shellfish from Taylor Shellfish Farms, a fifth-generation family-owned fishing operation in Puget Sound that is certified as a sustainable agriculture farm by the comprehensive Food Alliance. Their clams, mussels and oysters also are rated “best choice” by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program.
Oro’s Contorni, or side dishes, are worth checking out as well. We try the Asparagus & Arugula, and it too impresses. The generous portion is plenty for two of us to share. The grilled asparagus are crisp without a tough or chewy stalk in the bunch. They are topped with a creamy gribiche sauce. Made with garlic aioli, hard-boiled eggs, cornichons (tiny, tart pickles), capers, lemon and chives, it adds both a rich texture and a zesty flavor.
Other notable dishes that we’ll have to return for include the Rigatoni Bolognese, which features Colorado-raised bison and pork bolognese, and the Whole Roasted Bronzino, a filleted but entire Mediterranean sea bass. Steak lovers can also opt for the Bistecca Colorado, a 20-ounce porterhouse cut from locally raised beef.
The Drinks
Oro’s attention to detail shines through in its wine and cocktail menus as well, and Elhousary describes his team’s extensive efforts to perfect their flavor profiles. Case in point is the La Festa, Oro’s Italian riff on a pomegranate margarita. Elhousary says he tried a long list of options to find just the right note before landing on pomegranate molasses. The result is a perfect kiss of tartness that avoids excessive sweetness.
That’s true of the several cocktails we try. Each is well balanced. None of them cloy — even the Choco Cello dessert cocktail. Inspired by the Italian La Sconza lemoncello chocolate candy popular at Easter, the creamy cocktail drinks richly bright. Mozart dark chocolate liqueur lends a chocolate note, but it’s brilliantly balanced with fresh note from the lemoncello and the spice of aged dark rum. There would be no shame in ordering this standout before dinner.
Another pair of unique options on the cocktail menu are the Golden Wall and Saffrontini, both built with saffron infused vodka. “Those two saffron cocktails are the most unique,” Elhousary says. “They pair color-wise with the dining room decor, and they also pair so well with popular dishes like the arancini appetizer.”
Wine lovers have a wide but not overwhelming range of options that feature a tour of Italian wine regions. All of the wines by the glass come from Italy, including sangiovese from Tuscany, nebbiolo from Piedmont and falanghina from Campania. We try the Cantine Colosi Nero d’Avol and find that the full-bodied Sicilian red pairs nicely with the tomato sauce bases of both our lamb and seafood.
Bottle selections range even farther across Italy, but there are also New World options from the Pacific Northwest and California. True French Champagnes are also available.
On the Way Out
Before leaving Oro, don’t miss dessert, specifically the authentic Tiramisu. Like the rest of the menu, it is not overly sweetened, allowing its espresso and cocoa flavors to speak for themselves in a balanced dance with the creamy mascarpone cheese.
That’s a theme we find to be true across Oro’s menus. All in all, we are impressed with Oro’s ability to mine the complementary flavors of its dishes and drinks and trust them to shine on their own. In doing so, the new restaurant has struck a rich vein of pure gold.
Check out the entire menu or make reservations at orocoloradosprings.com.
