It’s no secret that these are challenging days for the restaurant industry. Across the nation and throughout Colorado Springs, many restaurants are struggling, dogged by staffing problems and inflation. Some like the Wild Goose Meeting House, a fixture in downtown Colorado Springs for a decade, have been forced to close their doors.
“People are tightening their belts,” says restaurateur Riley Wallenta. “They’re still going out to eat, but they’re spending less. Maybe they’re ordering one drink instead of two.”
Wallenta has seen that belt tightening in her family’s restaurants, which include Dos Santos, Dos Dos, White Pie and Sushi Row.
So what do they do about it? While others call it quits, the Wallentas are expanding, leaping out there with a new concept, Night Ramen, a lively cafe across the street from the recently closed food hall The Well and an upgrade for ramen in Colorado Springs.
“Why grow?” Riley asks. “Why not grow? We’re in it for the long hall. This is our passion.”
Already known for creative modern takes on tacos, pizza and sushi, the Wallentas go all in on their playful variations on noodle bowls and other Asian staples.
Night Ramen hits a niche that nobody else has filled in Colorado Springs, a gourmet spin on the noodle bar. Think Momofuku in New York and Vegas or Uncle in Denver.
Not coincidentally, Jason Wallenta worked as a server in Uncle, impressed with the quality of the food as well as the crowds.
Riley, Jason and Jason’s brother Kris have been tossing around several restaurant concepts, but the idea for a noodle place traces back to a trip Jason and Kris took 10 years ago to San Francisco.
“We were in this little pho place, just a hole in the wall spot, sitting at the counter,” Kris Wallenta says. “They fed us these crazy bowls and introduced me to something new, and I fell in love with these bowls of Asian broths and noodles.”
Kris, who helped develop the menus and recipes for Dos Santos, Dos Dos and White Pie, had been classically trained at the French Culinary Institute in New York, and that training has turned him into a mad scientist of sauces.
The man is nuts. If you don’t believe me, take a stroll into the walk-in fridge at Dos Santos.
“Yeah, we have like a million sauces in there,” Kris says with a laugh. “It’s important. Sauces can make or break anything. You have to balance the brightness, and the way it matches and marries the other flavors on the plate.”
Chef Kris sees Asian broths as an extension of sauces.
Before you spoon into his ramen, say the Tokyo Shoyu (pork, egg and veggies in a hearty pork broth) put your face close to the bowl and take in a deep whiff. The complex aroma swirls and creates the perfect coming attraction to the deliciousness that awaits.
These are noodle bowls worthy of Uncle or Momofuku, but hardly carbon copies. In fact, Kris said he’s always tinkering with the flavor blends.
The bowls may be the center attraction, but don’t hurry to get to them. Night Ramen is a place that demands some level of linger, thanks in large part to Riley’s insane design skills. The Japanese lanterns on the ceiling, the arm-swinging gold prosperity cats on the wall, the bar that’s open to the outside patio, all invite us to spend some quality time here.
“I felt a need for a cool night-time vibey spot,” Riley says.
“And I love that it’s just open at night — one shift. We can handle that,” Jason says.
Go with some friends so you can take some time and sample the apps. The crab rangoon may be the best in the state. What does American-born crab rangoon have to do with Japanese noodles? Shut up and eat these crispy, real crab-and cream cheese-filled pockets of delight, served with a spicy chili sauce.
My veggie friends will especially love the mushroom fries, a work-of-art with crispy long-stemmed enokis surrounding an addictive miso honey mustard. And the pan-seared dumplings could go up against any dumplings in the city.
And for my insider tip: Go for the dry, clean-finish Yeti sake, which the Wallentas moved to Night Ramen from Sushi Row. And leave room for the triple-chocolate torte (gluten-free), a rich, well-textured chocolate-lovers’ dream.
Judging from the lines out the door, diners seem to agree. This is another out-of-the-park hit from the Wallentas.
What’s next for these serial restaurant creators?
Continuing to buck the trends, they’re expanding to Nashville (which has become their second home) with new locations of Dos Santos and Sushi Row. With restaurants this good, it’s working.
Ramen in Colorado Springs
Find it at nightramen.com.
