“There’s no good Mexican food in Colorado Springs.” Maybe you’ve heard that for years, decades even.
It’s time to stop the whining. Milagro’s Cocina Mexicana recently lifted the gourmet end of our already thriving Mexican scene with an elegant special-occasion sit-down restaurant. Authentic taquerias and food trucks dot South Academy Boulevard, and Dos Santos and its new sister place Dos Dos serve outstanding American fusion hipster tacos and burritos.
Now, here comes Zocalo, pronounced ZOcalo, which translates to plaza or public square. Located downtown at 418 S. Tejon Street, beneath Casa Mundi apartments, it’s a fun, casual modern taqueria with the heart of a central Mexico food truck, and it has a serious Mexican chef at the wheel. In fact, the first thing you notice when you walk into the joint is an actual teal-and-white vintage VW bus in the back. During the first few weeks Zocalo was open, taco plates would come in from the kitchen through the passenger door and get delivered to customers through a driver’s side window.
A cute gimmick, but chef and co-owner Sergio De Los Santos eventually saw the impracticality.
“Last Saturday, the line was out the door, and we had people ordering, getting food and not finding places to sit,” he says.
Sergio and his wife and co-owner, Lindsey De Los Santos, say the huge crowds took them by surprise.
“We like to open our restaurants during the slower time of year so that we can work out our kinks while we are slower,” she says. “We did not anticipate the turnout, especially during a slower time during the winter. We are extremely grateful for all the people that have come out to try our food and support us. We also apologize for the long wait times.”
Alas, the bus with the lit TACOS sign has become just a prop in Zocalo, and they have gone to standard table service. But you’ll still like the bus, which blends in with basket lamps, wicker-style chairs, rope-swing seats and a long board beside the pergola-covered bar to create the feel of a tropical vacation.
“We have two restaurants in the Chicago area,” Lindsey says. “Sergio’s Cantina has been around for about 15 years and has more of a traditional Mexican atmosphere. Our second location is more of an industrial bar atmosphere, and we just wanted to do something different for Zocalo. Sergio and I just love the beach and thought it would be fun to do a boho Tulum-beach-style eatery. We really like to create an atmosphere that offers an escape from everyday life.”
That it does.
Open, airy and delightfully loud with Tejano music and conversation, Zocalo buzzes with foodies looking to try out the new kid on the block.
What they find on their plates are the perfect accompaniments to that atmosphere: scrumptious tacos on small corn tortillas with huge, dynamic flavors.
Among Sergio’s favorites is the steak chimichurri: chunks of beef topped with a tangy, homemade pesto sauce, cabbage, sour cream and pico de gallo. After you try it, you won’t be surprised to learn that the taco won the first prize in an Illinois State Fair culinary contest. The Food Network covered Sergio’s victory, and the winning taco (and its creator) also were featured on the Cooking Channel.
Among our other favorite tacos: carnitas, shrimp tacos, El Macho (with steak, chorizo and avocado) and panela mushroom (with a grilled Mexican cheese that has become my favorite single ingredient at Zocalo).
For apps, definitely check out the poke nachos, which may slightly edge out the poke nachos at Dos Santos around the block, and that is high praise. They also go upscale with a lobster quesadilla appetizer that’s tasty, but the flavor of the lobster tends to get lost in the Mexican spices.
If you’re looking for more traditional Mexican fare, Zocalo has you covered with excellent chile rellenos, tamales and enchiladas, based on recipes from Sergio’s mom and dad in Mexico City.
The drink menu offers the same mix of traditional and adventurous. Among our faves was the Ancho Old Fashioned, which warmed the belly with Mexican whiskey, ancho liqueur, mole bitters and a large round rock of ice that had an orange peel embedded in it. (It’s right up there with Homa’s Okinawa Old Fashioned.) The bar menu and bar staff training were the work of Sergio and Lindsey’s son, Christian. The last time I saw him, he was infusing a Tobacco Old Fashioned with smoke over at Axe and the Oak.
The lively vibe and the food quality, along with the new-place curiosity, partly explain the lines out the door. But the other reason for the popularity is value.
Most of the tacos come in at $4 or $5, and while they’re small, two and maybe a side of beans or guac make a meal. During happy hour (3-5 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays), the street tacos come in at $3 and house margs at $6.
Given the quality and bang-for-the buck, the crowds are likely to stick around long after the “new kid” sheen has worn off.
Where to Find Zocalo
Zocalo is on the street level below Casa Mundi apartments at 418 S. Tejon Street. Find the menu and more at zocalocolorado.com.
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